Eldorado Peak

Located in the rugged North Cascades National Park, Eldorado Peak is famous for its knife edge summit ridge and its unsurpassed views. Approaching via the mellow Eldorado Glacier, climbers have ample opportunity to practice their glacier mountaineering skills before reaching the exposed East Ridge which involves steep snow with wonderful climbing exposure. From here climbers take in the views of Forbidden Peak’s amazing “norwand,” the peaks of the Inspiration-Klawatti Ice Cap and the Ptarmigan Traverse, and Mt. Shuksan and Mt. Baker to the north. This is without a doubt one of the most famous views in Washington - don’t forget your camera!

On this climb we will cover:

Selection and use of personal equipment, ropes, knots and harnesses

Crampon use and snow climbing techniques, ice axe positioning, and self arrest techniques

Roped glacier travel, rope team management, route finding, and crevasse navigation

Hazard assessment including a discussion of objective vs. subjective hazards

Camp construction, camp management, and cold weather camping skills

Proper clothing and climbing gear for survival in the high mountains, mountain weather, alpine ecology, avalanche hazard assessment, and Leave No Trace ethics

Day 1

We drive from Seattle to the trailhead located on the Cascade River Road a few miles below Cascade Pass (3 hrs). The approach up Eldorado Creek is strenuous and notorious for its steepness and directness. With solid fitness, however, it goes quickly and the angle eases off after about 3 hours. We start out in dense, old growth forest, then pass through some steep boulder fields and clusters of Mountain Hemlock before arriving in the alpine zone where the mighty Johannesburg Peak dominates the view. A low camp can be made here or, if time and fitness allow, we can move up to bivouac spots at the base of the Eldorado Glacier.

Day 2

The second day is dedicated to teaching the essentials of glacier travel. We begin with learning basic climbing skills, ice axe usage, self arrest, and balance positioning. In the afternoon we can work on roped team travel, route finding, and hazard assessment with an introduction to crevasse rescue and possibly move camp or go on a glacier tour.

After an alpine start we climb up toward the summit via the Eldorado and Inspiration Glaciers and the East Ridge. Depending on conditions, the pace of the group, and the location of high camp, it takes from three to six hours to reach the summit. From the top at 8,868 feet, we have stunning views of the heart of the North Cascades and spine of the Cascade Crest. Our descent reverses the approach route. Expect to be back in Seattle by 5-6 pm.